Surf break

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**Types of Surf Breaks:**
– Surf breaks are categorized as permanent or semi-permanent obstructions affecting wave breaks.
– The seabed topography shapes the wave and type of break.
– Shoals shifting in size and location can impact surf breaks.
– Some breaks are hazardous due to underwater reefs or rocks.
Human activities and constructions can influence the quality of surf breaks.
– Examples include point breaks, beach breaks, reef breaks, and shipwreck breaks.

**Types of Surfable Waves:**
– Swell waves are generated by wind on the surface.
– Wind waves can be surfed after merging into genuine swell.
– Ship waves can be created by large vessels like oil tankers.
– Rare instances involve surfing tsunami waves from earthquakes.
– Glacial calving waves are produced by ice calving from glaciers.

**Human Influence on Surf Breaks:**
– Construction of jetties and groynes can impact local surf quality.
– Artificial harbors may alter surf dynamics positively or negatively.
– Shipwrecks can unintentionally create surfable waves.
– Sand dredging and dumping can affect nearby surf breaks.
Human activities can have varied effects on surf quality.

**Artificial Modifications to Surf Breaks:**
– Artificial reef breaks involve altering seabed dynamics with mixed success.
– Artificial wave pools use wave-generating devices for inland surfing.
– Artificial standing waves form when lagoons reconnect to the ocean.
– Reef bombing, development and stabilization of sand dunes, and climate change effects are discussed.
– Rising sea levels, ocean currents, storms, and coral reef degradation are also explored.

**Environmental Impact on Surf Breaks:**
– Coral reef breaks are influenced by wind, depth, location, and human activities.
– Global warming affects coral reefs, leading to extinction risks by 2030.
– Ocean acidification impacts reef breaks due to rising ocean acidity.
– Actions to preserve surf breaks are highlighted, such as opposition to development projects and efforts to protect surf breaks from environmental threats.
– Additional information on surf breaks, including notable surf spots and stories of conservation efforts, is provided.

Surf break (Wikipedia)

A surf break (also break, shore break, or big wave break) is a permanent (or semi-permanent) obstruction such as a coral reef, rock, shoal, or headland that causes a wave to break, forming a barreling wave or other wave that can be surfed, before it eventually collapses. The topography of the seabed determines the shape of the wave and type of break. Since shoals can change size and location, affecting the break, it takes commitment and skill to find good breaks. Some surf breaks are quite dangerous, since the surfer can collide with a reef or rocks below the water.

Surfing a break in Oahu

Surf breaks may be defended vehemently by surfers, as human activities and constructions can have unintended and unpredictable consequences on the quality of the break.

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